[Jane B]

I don't know Dave. I started getting the error message yesterday. I still can't use the EOS utility to get the photos from the camera to the pc. I've managed to get them on there using other camera software.

[Martyn Wells]

or take the memory card out and put it in the PC and use windows explorer to transfer to hard drive?

[Jane B]

Thanks for taking the time to reply Martyn. Much appreciated.

[Dave Hancox]

Treated myself to new Pentax K30 with std and 50mm -200mm weather resistant lenses, Would like to try some timelapse with my K200D now and see a lot of remotes on E-bay, Any recommendations from our members who have experience in this field would be appreciated.

[Tony Sales]

Dave Hancox, on 05 August 2012 - 17:46, said:

Treated myself to new Pentax K30 with std and 50mm -200mm weather resistant lenses, Would like to try some timelapse with my K200D now and see a lot of remotes on E-bay, Any recommendations from our members who have experience in this field would be appreciated.

Very nice camera Dave im thinking of upgrading to a 650D so I can use the movie mode more productively, most notably, the Hybrid AF system

[Donki]

Dave Hancox, on 05 August 2012 - 17:46, said:

Treated myself to new Pentax K30 with std and 50mm -200mm weather resistant lenses, Would like to try some timelapse with my K200D now and see a lot of remotes on E-bay, Any recommendations from our members who have experience in this field would be appreciated.

I recently bought a Pentax K5 and the timelapse option is part of the camera software, is that not the case with the K30?

or try this, I think its freeware http://www.pktether.com/
Bill

[Dave Hancox]

Thanks Bill, The K30 does have time-lapse built in, But using the older K200D with an lcd remote for time-lapse because it so shot intensive in an effort to make my K30 last. Bought timer similar to this http://www.amazon.co...48673188&sr=8-5 Welcome to the forum by the way nice to have another Pentax user.

[scotty1]

Anyone take long exposures astro/storms with noise reduction off?, this would reduce the process time between shots, save the battery, also allow the shutter open instead of waiting for the camera between shots... (or is this wrong? Lol) .

[Tony Sales]

Havent tried both to see whether its quicker, you could just shoot in RAW and do it all in post later on, gives the best results and might quicken up the time between shots. Also, consider a fast memory card, something around 45mb/s or faster will make it much quicker

[Donki]

As a rule of thumb any type of noise reduction tends to make the image less sharp. Regarding time delay unless your shooting in multi burst mode and with a fast memory card doubt if it was noticeable.

Neither of my cameras have noise reduction option selected since new out of the box, pretty sure even in auto mode it's not selected as a default setting.

As mentioned above if possible shoot in images in raw, that will give you far more choice when processing. Your iso settings will have a bearing on image noise.

Ain't camera settings fun.

[scotty1]

Thanks for the tips, i always shoot in RAW, i set noise reduction to ON as it was recommended in the manual for bulb setting, btw its a pentax K10D so not the latest tech.
I noticed that while taking photos of a storm the other year, there was a long waite between shots while the camera processed the file, something as a shock after using slide film!

Thanks for the tips, i always shoot in RAW, i set noise reduction to ON as it was recommended in the manual for bulb setting, btw its a pentax K10D so not the latest tech.
I noticed that while taking photos of a storm the other year, there was a long waite between shots while the camera processed the file, something as a shock after using slide film!

[Lightning Hunter]

I've never used noise reduction for lightning. I'd rather post-process than miss a load of lightning.

In-camera NR usually takes a second black image of the same exposure length of the first shot, which would obviously be too time consuming if using 20-30sec exposures etc.

I usually shoot exposures of no more than 10 sec anyway, which reduces noise. Exposing the lightning correctly (each bolt is different remember) and noise shouldn't be an issue

[scotty1]

Thanks lightning hunter, i know most uk storms dont have too frequent lightning , but the noise off option sounds more practical, for increasing your chance of a good photo.

[scotty1]

I was looking to buy an autofocus zoom (pentax F 100-300mm) and possibly use a 2x teleconvertor with it.
As i cant afford the bigma sigma 500mm , has anyone used a teleconvertor with success? .

[Jez Meyer]

I use a 2x teleconverter with my old 80-200 Hama M42 - don't be expecting anything particularly sharp or contrasty at the long end, and unless you're paying a lot for it don't count on it being exactly 2x. I'd say mine is more of a 1.4x converter. Still very useful though, and as you say far cheaper than the equivalent lens.

[Donki]

scotty1, on 01 May 2013 - 21:22, said:

I was looking to buy an autofocus zoom (pentax F 100-300mm) and possibly use a 2x teleconvertor with it.
As i cant afford the bigma sigma 500mm , has anyone used a teleconvertor with success? .

I have a Nikon 1.4x converter for my 300mm f4 nikkor lens, as said sharpness, exposure and will take a slight step backwards. I use it on my macro lens and is very good for that. (Nikon D90 body)

Save up for the Pentax 300m f4, not cheap but has recently dropped in price from £999 to £799 on some online sellers. I tried one for a day and on my K5 it was very very sharp, focus nice and quick, the colours were very contrasty and true.

I'm hoping to get one this year when funds allow.

[scotty1]

When using Bulb mode with a pentax-M 28mm 3.5 lens on a K10D,
(this lens doesn't have an A button for apeture control) would manually selecting the F stops change the iris ok for long exposures in bulb ?
thanks.

[Donki]

scotty1, on 05 May 2013 - 20:26, said:

When using Bulb mode with a pentax-M 28mm 3.5 lens on a K10D,
(this lens doesn't have an A button for apeture control) would manually selecting the F stops change the iris ok for long exposures in bulb ?
thanks.

Not familiar with either lens or camera, if the lens has a manual aperture ring yes it should operate the iris, I assume this is an older PK fit Pentax lens?

Many modern len's don't have an aperture ring as it is set from the camera. I have several older manual Pentax lenses for my K5, they work fine in bulb mode and setting the aperture on the lens ring.

The "A" button on an older len's is for auto or semi auto use quite often. or possibly aperture priority.
Hope I read your question right.

This post has been edited by Donki: 05 May 2013 - 21:19

[scotty1]

Hi Donki thanks,
The A button on older lenses is to let the camera control the F stops, as my 28mm lens doesnt have an A button, i thought manually selecting F stops may not be recognised by the Camera, it didnt seem to make any difference to exposure when i altered the iris ring, i think it may default to F8.
I will have to take some test shots at night i guess.